Friday 22nd February - Last Day in Pondi

We have set the alarm for 06.00 as we want to look at Bharathi Park, a couple of blocks in from the sea front, and see if there are any interesting feathered friends. The sun is just rising and there is not much traffic, but a surprising number of people are walking purposefully down towards the promenade. We choose a route that takes us across the front of the Sri MV Temple, which is already quite busy. The doors are thrown back and it is possible to see the lines of worshippers waiting for their turn. No sighting of the elephant that apparently blesses visitors by tapping them on the head with her   trunk.

Bharathi Park used to be the parade ground for the French Military Garrison and conversion only started in 1946, when trees were planted. There are quite a few power walkers and a lesser number of amblers taking an early morning outing. We walk the perimeter noting crows and palm squirrels, but nothing exciting. At the east gate we get a great view of the sun breaking through the cloud over the Bay of Bengal. Eventually we spot a couple of parakeets and another Coppersmith Barbet. Pondy has no great reputation as a birding centre and we understand why. As we head back to the hotel it is still quiet, and we hear fizzing and crackling coming from some of the electrical boxes fitted on the outside walls of shops.

R's Indian Special Breakfast this morning includes pooris as well as an idli and an upma. The waiter doesn't even bother asking D, who scrounges one of the pooris. We plan the rest of the day which will have a slightly religious theme. When we consult the book we learn that one of our targets closes between 10 am and 4 pm so we have an incentive to get our skates on. We follow the same route back to the park and notice how much the heat has built up in three hours.

Pondy has three Catholic cathedrals, although one describes itself as a Basilica. We decide that it is possible to have too much of a good thing and restrict ourselves to two of them. The Basilica requires a lengthy trek across town. There is nothing significant about this - we also skip the Methodist Zion Church. The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception is well maintained and has a few adherents in for prayers. There is no requirement to remove footwear. The place is serene and tranquil apart from the noisy crows that fly in and out of the open windows. 

 Cathedral 1 is also handily placed, just down the road from the Cafe des Arts, where we attend to rehydration. Visit 2 is Notre Dame des Anges, where visitors are required to remove footwear, no hardship on the cool marble floors, but could this be evidence of a schism? Again very imposing, this one appears to make more effort to communicate in Tamil. Obviously we have no idea what message is being communicated.

Having completed the spiritual part of the day we move on to retail. The Fabindia branch here has a large notice outside, promising a clearance sale. Inside it is rather small, with limited stock and no evidence of bargains. We are in and out in under 10 minutes, a record. There is a large hall filled with tables of books and a few shoes for good measure. The range of books is bizarre, including a stack of Formula One 2001/2002 Yearbooks, coffee table books of Pictorial Cornwall and a large pile of 50 Shades Darker at the bargain price of 99 rupees. It is with reluctance that D doesn't purchase a Pictorial History of British Steam Locomotives, which would have immediately made us liable for excess baggage charges.

Outside, on Mission Street there is some kind of pro Corbyn march going on. 

We move on to the main market on Nehru Street. The aroma emanating from the fish market does not entice, so we skip that building and start with the fruit & veg. The aisles are a bit cramped and the overall metal roof can't be helping the sweaty atmosphere inside. Towards the back, where the flower sellers have their pitches, there is a bit more space. By now it is pretty much siesta time so we retire to the Bull for a cup of tea and a snooze.

For Friday night we make an effort and get the good frocks out. The promenade is busier than last night, and the breeze appears to be absent. We walk all the way from north to south, about 1.5 km. Pondy needs to do something about its drains but has definitely got the right approach to traffic free promenades. It is getting dark by the time we get to the Seagulls Hotel, where there definitely is a very pleasant breeze on the terrace of the first floor bar. Tonight the peanut masala has more crushed papads and onions, with a lower peanut content but is still very acceptable.

We tried earlier to book a table at the Villa Shanti but there were none to be had. We go early on the off chance, and are given the last of the low bar tables. Tonight we have Mutton Keema with Jeera Rice and Tarka Dal which is really good. Lonely Planet doesn't always get it right, but they are spot on with this place. While we eat a queue forms for tables and we congratulate ourselves on getting there in good time. By the time we get back to the hotel R's step counting machine says 16,000 plus. No wonder we were hungry.