Today is earmarked for D's outing on the Kochi Metro. For once we are not the only ones in breakfast, which is small dosas stuffed with potato and tomato. Very tasty. D gets his things together, including the dodgy sandal, and sets off on foot to the ferry terminal. Overnight large quantities of Hammer & Sickle red flags have appeared around the town. D's timing is perfect the last couple of people are at the window on the landing stage, buying tickets and, after D buys his, the shutter comes down. The boat is standing room only, but not jam packed, and there is a nice breeze through the open sides. The trip is non-stop and there are plenty of other boats crisscrossing from other jetties around the harbour.
On the Ernakulam side D has to walk about 600 metres to the current southern terminal of the line, Maharaja's College, which is a lofty three levels above MG Road, the busy shopping street through the heart of the city. When we were last here there was just a line of concrete stilts down the middle of the road. Now the trains run every six minutes out to Aluva, a trip of 18.4 km. There is a ticket office and security scan inside the ground floor entrance. A full trip is Rs 50 and there is no nonsense about cameras in bags or signing a register. The list of heinous offences does not mention photography as they are much more concerned about blowing whistles when somebody steps over the yellow line, about two feet in from the platform edge. D is one of those whistled at.
Just south of the end of the platforms a barrier denotes the limit of the line so far. Extension work is underway to take the line east to Ernakulam Junction, where we got off the train on Wednesday, and on beyond into the Eastern suburbs. Trains arriving cross over to use the west side platform which currently serves for both arrivals and departures. The signage is clear, as are the announcements, and everything is very clean.
The train arrives as predicted and deboarding passengers quickly clear. There are plenty of seats and the AC is a bit on the fierce side. The train soon gets under way. There are good views across the city as we head north, then north east, following main roads all of the time, out past the JN Stadium and into the suburbs. The stations are not quite so high above street level out here. The northern terminus at the moment is Aluva, shown as having a market by the map app, so D goes in search of a shoe repair walla.
It turns out to be the city's wholesale fruit and veg market, totally lacking in other trades. D walks the road under the line back to the penultimate station without finding anyone useful. Plan B is needed. The map shows the Kerala High Court precinct. Fancy barristers and advocates wear shiny shoes and are unlikely to stoop to polishing them in person. A metro train to Lissie and a short auto ride to the court, followed by directions from a gaggle of waiting auto men, bring D to the spot on the pavement that he needs. The sandal is mended in workmanlike fashion and the fee paid. A celebratory refreshment seems to be in order.
This is where things gang agley. Today is a Dry Day in Kerala, just like every other First of a Month. Surely this can't apply to Fridays but it does. No wonder the Reds are protesting. So it has to be Seven Up, still welcome in the heat, before beating a retreat to the Boat Jetty for the return to Fort Kochi.
Back at the Saj Homestay R is relaxing after a culture packed morning visiting Biennale installations and gatecrashing a Writers' Symposium. We have both had so much fun that a siesta is deemed essential.
The late afternoon/early evening is spent in gentle retail pursuit. We even get in some impromptu birding as we see an entire flock of White Cheeked Barbets occupy a tree in front of us. For supper we try the smart restaurant a couple of doors down the street that specialises in Keralan cuisine. Fish baked with tamarind in banana leaf and Prawn curry with mango go down very nicely.
If time permits - try Malabari cuisine.
ReplyDeleteYou got whistled at, didcha? hmmm...