Thursday 28th February - Dutch Treat

We sleep extremely well and have to scramble to get to the eight o'clock breakfast that we asked for. The Kerala menu was our chosen option and we have no regrets when it arrives. Pineapple lassi, followed by puttu topped with coconut, served with black chickpea kari, sliced banana and things that look and taste like crisps. You can keep your avocado toast and hash browns. The concept of black tea, no sugar has arrived here so all is good.

Our plan today is to hit the less touristy areas to get one or two things for home. D does some research and finds a place a mile or so away that has a few shops that might fit the bill. As we exit, yesterday's auto driver is waiting. He quotes a reasonable fare to where we want to go and, once we are underway, asks why we want to go there. When we say 'Kitchenware' he tells us that he knows some good places. As we know nothing about the places picked off the internet we go for it. If he picks up a few bucks commission we can live with it. We turn off the main road into a very non touristy part of town and pull up outside the sort of place that we want. An old chap sits behind the counter. The requirement is some small stainless bowls for serving chaats and masalas to the sort of guests who turn their noses up at eating out of a cone made of newspaper. Some of the folk we ken have never been in Sleeper Class. 

Our driver explains what we need and a sample is produced that looks good. "Ten please" which provokes dismay from the auld yin. The shelf contains five and he goes to look behind the scenes. He returns empty handed. A rather efficient looking lady appears and she goes behind the curtain to search without success. Then another lady appears and lifts a large Tupperware box from under the counter. This doesn't contain any more of Type one but has lots of a similar, less showy and less expensive model. We go for ten of this Type 2 and everbody except D & R looks crestfallen. Must have been some margin on Type 1.

The first place does not have the serving bowls that we want so we walk along the street to the second store. Here we are greatly honoured as the proprietor switches the lights on and allows us access into the depths of the store. We find suitable bowls but neither spot has a tea infuser, greatly sought after by R. The auto driver doesn't seem keen on a third shop, but as it is on the way back to his vehicle we go in. A blank is drawn. Having achieved in half an hour what we expected to take all morning, we revise the plan and head for the Dutch Palace in Mattancherry. 

The local history of this part of the world is complex. The local rulers converted to Islam in the 12th century, had to fight off various aggressors from elsewhere within what is now India before doing a trading deal with the Portuguese in the 1500s. This let the Portuguese build a palace and trading post on the east side of the island. In the early 1600s they were ousted by the Dutch who rebuilt the Palace and who allowed a Jewish community to thrive on the island. Part of Mattancherry is still called Jew Town and there is a functioning synagogue. The Brits did a deal with the local rulers in the late 1700s to oust the Dutch and then imposed rule by Resident until after Indian Independence in 1947. The rulers of Kochi opted to become part of India soon after.

So that is why we spent an hour looking round the Dutch Palace, which has some fabulous murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana, the ancient Sanskrit epic that is revered by Hindus. There is a no photo policy and the postcards are sold out so you will have to go and see for yourselves. There are some other murals and a few interesting artefacts so D voted it good value for Rs 5, no Foreigner surcharge. The place gets very busy with pink people while we are there. Apparently a cruise ship has docked for the day. 

We move on into Mattancherry High Street which looks to have come up in the world since we were here four years ago. By chance we find the Pepper House, a disused warehouse that is home to several Biennale installations. These are big pieces that encourage interaction, and they are curated by enthusiastic young people who urge us to explore and appreciate. There is one particular piece inspired by the lives of farmers in Assam that is very moving.

Some of the old warehouses are now rather splendidly restored as smart antique shops and restaurants. There are still some less smart places including one warehouse cum workshop where craftsmen appeared to be knocking out reproductions while working amongst antiques awaiting restoration. Down a back alley we saw a warehouse crating up items for shipment to France. After tea and cake in a rather smart arcade near the synagogue we decide to head for home. Our auto driving shadow appears from nowhere and we agree a fare home. On the way he asks us to visit one shop. Somehow we fall for this but get out reasonably unscathed, just buying a papiermache Christmas decoration.

Our afternoon snooze is disturbed by the lady from the laundry who phones to say that our washing is ready, and that she will be closing in half an hour. D picks it up and reminds Mrs Dhobi that she didn't have enough change yesterday. One cannot let the bourgeoisie have it all their own way. This evening we explore the north west quarter of Fort Kochi, which includes the fish market and most of the bars. There is a scratch market along the front and we make the mistake of being interested in one chap's pictures. He has some supposed Jaipur stamp paper paintings but the tax stamps just look too new to be real. He pursues us along the street and the price comes down to 300 which seems to confirm that they are fake.

We retire for a beer (Amstel, those Dutch again) and one of D's sandal straps parts company with the sandal. Not the one repaired in Dhaka, but the other one. Everybody who has been to India knows that it is barely possible to walk the pavement because of the congregated shoe shine/repair wallas. As you pass they tell you how much your perfectly serviceable shoes are in need of repair. Except in Fort Kochi. Never mind. We will consult an expert. The expert says that he will take us to the shoe man, wait and take us to our chosen restaurant for Rs 100. Deal. We drive for miles around Kochi Island but no shoe repairs. 

In the end we give up and go for supper. Dal Roti was a big hit four years ago. You had to be there at opening time to get a table. It has moved along the street and appears to have changed hands. At first we are by ourselves but then it fills up. The thalis are super but most of the Indian customers seem to be there for kati rolls. What will PP say?